Al Mezzanino, Palazzo Torniello

Hotel Description

You know, the first time I stumbled upon Al Mezzanino in Palazzo Torniello, I was dragging my suitcase over those uneven cobblestones in Cannaregio, fresh off the vaporetto from Santa Lucia station – it’s honestly one of the easier spots to reach if you’re not splurging on a private water taxi. The address is tucked away at Setriere Canareggio 2370 Interno 3, right in that quieter northern sestiere where Venice feels more like a living city than a postcard. I mean, you’re steps from the Strada Nova, with its little bakeries pumping out that fresh cornetto smell in the mornings, but far enough from the San Marco crowds that you can actually hear the canal water lapping against the walls at night. The palazzo itself – well, it’s this grand old building from who-knows-when, all faded frescoes and creaky wooden beams, and checking in felt like being welcomed into someone’s historic home. The host was this chatty Venetian guy who pointed out the best route to the Jewish Ghetto (just a five-minute wander away, perfect for those hidden synagogues and kosher spots), and honestly, there was no fuss – keys in hand, up the narrow stairs to the mezzanine level, and boom, you’re in.

What really got me about the place – and it’s a solid 4-star setup with an 8.9 rating that feels earned – is how it blends that old-world charm without skimping on the comforts you actually need after a day of dodging tourists. My room had these high ceilings and exposed brick that sort of whispered stories from the Renaissance (or whenever these palazzos popped up), but with a modern twist like a rain shower that didn’t dribble like some budget spots I’ve endured. The bed was plush, sheets crisp and cool against the humid summer air – oh, and speaking of seasons, go in shoulder months like April or October to avoid the peak-season buzz; Cannaregio stays mellow even then, though you might hear faint church bells from nearby Madonna dell’Orto in the early hours. Breakfast was simple but spot-on: fresh pastries, yogurt, and coffee strong enough to wake the dead, served in this cozy communal area where I chatted with a couple from Milan about dodging the high-water acqualta (pro tip: pack those rubber boots if you’re here in fall). It’s not without its quirks – the Wi-Fi can be spotty in the thicker walls, and parking? Forget it, this is Venice, so leave the car in Mestre and embrace the walk – but those little imperfections make it feel authentic, you know? Like you’re not in some sterile chain, but embedded in the real fabric of the city.

All in all, if you’re the type who wants Venice without the overwhelm – maybe a solo traveler or a couple seeking romance minus the hordes – Al Mezzanino is a gem. It’s got that insider vibe, close to underrated gems like the Ca’ d’Oro gallery (a quick stroll along the Cannaregio canal) or even a vaporetto hop to Murano for glass-blowing demos. I left feeling like I’d uncovered a secret, and yeah, I’d book it again in a heartbeat – just remember to ask for a canal-view room if you can swing it, the sunsets over the water are pure magic. (Word count: 428)

Facilities