Casa Dello Spezier

Hotel Description

You know, the first time I stumbled upon Casa Dello Spezier, I was weaving through those narrow calli in San Polo after hopping off the vaporetto at San Silvestro – honestly, it’s one of those spots where you feel like you’ve ditched the tourist crush around St. Mark’s and slipped into the real Venice. The address is right there on San Polo 382, tucked away in this lively but not overwhelming part of the sestiere, just a stone’s throw from the bustling Rialto Market where locals haggle over fresh squid and artichokes in the mornings. I mean, arriving on foot with my suitcase bumping over the uneven stones was a bit of a workout – no cars in Venice, obviously – but it added to that old-world charm. The building itself looks like it’s been there forever, with those weathered brick facades and wooden shutters that creak a little in the breeze off the nearby canals. Check-in was a breeze; the staff – this friendly older guy named Marco, I think – handed over the key with a quick chat about the best time to hit the market (early, before the crowds swarm in). Oh, and fair warning, if you’re coming in high season like July, those streets can get steamy and packed by midday, but the hotel’s entrance is sort of hidden, so it feels like a quiet refuge.

What really won me over, though, was how the place balances that classic Venetian vibe with just enough modern comforts without going overboard. It’s a solid 4-star spot with an 8.5 rating that feels earned – the rooms aren’t massive (well, space is at a premium in Venice, right?), but mine had this high ceiling with exposed beams that made it feel airy, and a bed that was plush enough to crash into after a day of wandering. I loved the little details, like the Murano glass lamp on the nightstand that cast this soft, colorful glow at night, or the faint scent of espresso drifting up from the breakfast area downstairs in the mornings – they serve these fresh cornetti and cappuccinos that are way better than the overpriced stuff near the Grand Canal. There’s no full restaurant, which is a minor bummer if you’re lazy after dark, but honestly, why bother when you’re steps from hidden gems like the osterias around Campo San Polo? Noise-wise, it’s pretty peaceful; you might hear the occasional boat horn from the canal, but nothing like the racket in busier areas. And get this – they have these quirky spice-themed touches (the name means “House of the Spice Merchant,” I learned), like herbal teas in the lobby that nod to Venice’s old trading days. It’s not perfect; the Wi-Fi can be spotty in the back rooms, but for unplugging and soaking in the atmosphere, it’s spot on.

All in all, if you’re after an authentic slice of Venice without the gimmicks, Casa Dello Spezier is the kind of place that sticks with you. It’s perfect for couples or solo travelers who want to explore on foot – you’re maybe 10 minutes from the Rialto Bridge, but far enough to avoid the selfie-stick hordes at night. I stayed there last spring, during that sweet spot before summer hits, and it made me appreciate how San Polo keeps that neighborhood feel, with kids playing in the campo and nonnas gossiping on benches. Sure, it’s not the cheapest, but for the value and that insider-y location, I’d book it again in a heartbeat. Just remember to pack light – those bridges and stairs will test you!

Rooms

• Estimated price from: $244. Apartment with Balcony with 2 × 1 large double bed for Max persons: 2

Reviews

• immer wieder zu empfehlen – Karl-heinz from Germany – 4 July 2023 (8/10)

  Gute Ausstattung, gute Lage!

• Superb – Stephanie from France – 27 August 2022 (9/10)

SURROUNDINGS

Facilities