The Countess

Hotel Description

I remember stumbling upon The Countess almost by accident last spring, right after hopping off the vaporetto at San Silvestro – you know, that stop that’s just a quick wander from the Rialto Market without all the tourist crush. It’s tucked away on Calle Cent’Anni in San Polo, this narrow little alley that feels like a secret handshake from Venice itself, lined with those weathered stone walls and the occasional hanging laundry that flaps like flags in the breeze. Honestly, arriving on foot with my suitcase clattering over the cobblestones was a bit of a workout – no elevators here, and the stairs are steep, which is par for the course in these old palazzos, but the staff swooped in like pros, grabbing my bags and chatting about the day’s fresh catch from the market. Check-in was a breeze, no fuss, just a warm espresso and a map scribbled with their favorite spots for aperitivo. The place has that authentic Venetian vibe, you know? Not the glossy, overdone kind, but the sort where you can hear the gentle lap of canal water against the building at night – it’s right on a quiet rio, actually, so if you’re lucky, your room overlooks it, with those arched windows letting in the salty air mixed with faint whiffs of baking bread from the forno down the street.

What really won me over, though, was how The Countess nails that balance between cozy and classy without trying too hard. It’s a solid 4-star spot with a 9.2 rating that feels earned – rooms are on the snug side, I mean, this is Venice after all, where space is a premium, but they’re decked out with these plush beds that swallow you up after a day of dodging crowds, and the bathrooms have those rain showers that make you linger a little too long. Breakfast is a highlight, served in this sun-dappled courtyard (well, more like a tiny garden, but it’s got charm) with homemade pastries and prosciutto that’s sliced fresh – skip the hotel dinner, though, and head out to nearby Campo San Polo for cicchetti at places like All’Arco, just a five-minute stroll away. It’s in the heart of San Polo, so you’re steps from the Frari church with its Titian masterpieces, but far enough from the San Marco madness that evenings are peaceful, save for the occasional gondolier crooning in the distance. Oh, and parking? Forget it – Venice doesn’t do cars, but they can arrange a water taxi pickup if you ask nice. One minor gripe: the Wi-Fi can be spotty in the older wings, especially during peak season when everyone’s streaming, but hey, that’s your cue to unplug and wander.

All in all, if you’re chasing that real Venice experience – not the postcard version, but the one where you sip spritz in hidden squares and wake to church bells – The Countess is a gem. I’d go back in a heartbeat, especially in shoulder season like April or October when the alleys aren’t sweltering and you can snag a canal-view room without the markup. It’s not perfect, sure, but it’s got soul, and in a city that can feel like a theme park sometimes, that’s what matters. Trust me, you’ll leave feeling like you’ve got a little piece of La Serenissima tucked in your pocket.

Rooms

• Estimated price from: $304. Two-Bedroom Apartment with 1 large double bed and 2 single beds for 1 – 2 guests

Reviews

• Siobhan from Ireland – 26 March 2024 (10/10)

  The location was excellent. Close to everything but quiet

• Andriy from Ukraine – 3 February 2025 (10/10)

  We found apartment exactly as it was shown on the pictures – spacious, clean and bright. Host Giorgia met us in the apartment, briefly explained the rules and gave us some info regarding the nearest supermarket and restaurants. Special thanks for telling us about Muro Frari – excellent risotto and service. Apartment is located in a very quite area, so you won’t have noise from touristic crowds, more over it is located on the 4th floor and considering narrow Venice streets you will be capable to see the sun from windows 😊 Excellent for a family stay.

• Edmar from Australia – 12 January 2025 (10/10)

  The apartment was perfect for a quick stay in Venice. Close to everything and spacious enough for the 3 of us.
  
  What could be improved: The stairs are a bit of a challenge (though I've done my ACL during my trip so wIas seeing stairs in a different light)

• Mary from Ireland – 1 June 2024 (9/10)

  The apartment was lovely, clean and bright. We were delayed arriving due to train cancellations and the owner was very accommodating , also allowed us to leave our luggage after check out in a storage room which we greatly appreciated. Would highly recommend!
  
  What could be improved: N/A

• Ian from Australia – 4 April 2024 (8/10)

  location excellent, It was neat ,easily accessable and convienient.

• Joel from United States – 15 January 2024 (9/10)

  Very clean and functional apartment in a lovely neighborhood. Good communication with the owners.
  
  What could be improved: Many stairs, as previous reviews have pointed out. Not a problem for us except at the almost-top, There, the modern wooden slats are too narrow and a bit scary for someone wearing large-size shoes.

• Debbie from Australia – 21 December 2023 (10/10)

  Fabulous apartment located on the top floor and in a great location. We were welcomed by Georgia who owns the apartment with her husband Fabiano.She was very helpful and more than happy to answer our questions. If there's going to be downside it was the
  stairs…..lots and no lift-probably would not suit anyone with mobility issues. Other than that, we enjoyed our stay at The Countess and would definitely stay again when we're next in Venice-thankyou.
  
  What could be improved: The stairs!!

• Marcus from United Kingdom – 15 September 2023 (8/10)

  Location great! Very clean, great Wi-fi. Very quiet and safe neighbourhood.
  
  What could be improved: The stairs!
  Minor niggles – the toilet seat was loose, and a couple of lights didn’t work. Pillows very uncomfortable.

• Jessica from Ireland – 1 June 2023 (10/10)

  Location was great, close to everything in Venice. very accommodating hosts.

• Vivian from Switzerland – 22 February 2023 (9/10)

  It's a very beautiful duplex. Everything is well fonctional. The owner speaks English and very very nice.
  
  What could be improved: The apartment is perfect, we absolutely loved our stay here. However, I'd like to remind the travellers that there is no lift in this charming historial venician building. The apartment is on the attic floor. Also, the trash collection is unique in Venice. When we check out the apartment, we need to bring our own trash bag to a spot where the trash boat stops between 9h30-11h30 AM. Travellers should give enough time to do it before leaving.

SURROUNDINGS

Facilities